Friday, February 24, 2006

tourqoise saris and guests of honor

Two nights ago, I went with Nayan and Jyoti (our gurus) to a concert at the Nehru Center. Jesse had a gig so he couldn't come with us. I did not catch the names of the performers as I was admitted into the concert as a guest of Jyoti's and I didn't have my own invitation. Nayan had told Jesse however, that this is one of the 3 best Sitar players along with himself and Parvez (who we saw last time with Zakir). And of course, he was quite a phenomenon. His speed and agility on the Sitar was amazing. I especially like the way the classical indian concerts begin with the alap. This is the section where the instrumentalist takes time to introduce the sounds of the upcoming piece with slow improvised melodies. The tabla player accompanying the sitarist kept looking at Nayan and showed him respect by putting his hands together in "namaste" before he began to play. I feel so honored to be in the presence of such a respected musician.
At the intermission we went out to the lobby area to drink chai and eat samosas. I had the opportunity to ask Jyoti all kinds of questions about things I have been wondering about. For example, why does everyone here speak to each other in English when they can speak Hindi? She said it is mainly a question of proving status or affiliating with the west. Also, many of these people have been speaking English since childhood.
The next part of the concert was a singer! Yay. She was a mature looking woman with graying hair and a beautiful tourqose sari. She had with her a younger woman playing harmonium, and two playing tanpura, as well as a tabla player who is one of Nayan's students. She gave some kind of indroduction in Hindi and began her alap. She has the kind of rough voice I love and I was moved by her tone and phrases. As she continued singing I was drawn in more and more by her voice and the way she moved her body along with her singing. Then when she began doing some of the crazy indian vocal gymnastics that I normally can't relate to, I actually enjoyed it. It was the first time that I really felt the passion in those strange sounds and I look forward to learning how it is done.
After one vocal piece, we left as it was getting late. We snuck out through the backstage enterance. Nayan has performed at this venue a hundered times so of course he is well known there.
On the way home we picked up a very senior musician who was waiting at the bus stop. Nayan and Jyoti introduced us and the old man was friendly and began telling stories about his trip to America and how he is always humming becase he can't stay still for a moment. Nayan explained that this man plays harmonium very well and accompanies him during many perfomances. After we dropped him, we stopped for a bite to eat. This was the most time I had ever spent with Nayan and Jyoti and I was so happy to have them as company. They are very warm and intelligent people. It is easy to talk to them and at the same time, I really felt that I'm in the presence of greatness. Finally they took me to the Natural Ice Cream shop that happens to have a secret pathway straight to my house!! I came home glowing from the whole evening. Jesse came home just a few minutes after me.
The next evening I went with J to his gig. They throw some pretty fancy parties in this town! and you'll never believe who the guest of honor was... WILL SMITH. Ha! I was within arms length from the superstar. I felt kind of bad for him and how he can't go anywhere without being recognized and bombarded. His choice I guess. I don't know how Merlin gets these crazy gigs. Both jesse and i never expected that this is what we would be doing in india! Anyway, the wine was great and the food was good. I even got my jiggy on with some old high class indian guy.
And now, it's time for me to go back to my singing practice. Last lesson I learned "meend" which is the sliding between notes. I have another lesson with Jyoti this evening. She will not be teaching me for much longer as the teacher I was appointed, Krishna, will be coming back from leave in a few days.
It's very very hot here in Mumbai and only going to get hotter. We're staying under the fans as much as possible.
Namaste!!!

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